Tuesday, April 19, 2011

The Words of God

Something that stood out to me when I first got to Saudi and started learning common words and phrases in Arabic was how much God (Allah) was invoked in conversation.  It literally seemed like every other word or phrase contained within it the word Allah.  Greetings, interjections, exclamations, especially the most common ones, all referenced God or something pertaining to him.  Take the standard greeting and its response:

A salam alaikum -  May God's peace be upon you
Wa alaikum salam -  and may his peace be upon you

It seemed heavy to me.  I thought about greeting someone in English that way and the gravity of the statement stood out even further.  More deep sentiments when translated are also extremely common.  If someone asks "How are you?", it's very common for the response to be "Alhamdullilah"-- Praise be to God.  If someone says something surprising or wonderful and you wish to exclaim positively the response is "Mashallah"-- It is God's will.   "Inshallah" I've already posted about and it's frequency in use, while invoking ideas of fate and determination to some (we won't mention names), is again a reminder of the pervasiveness of referencing God constantly throughout the day.  "Wallah" means "I swear by Allah" and is used as commonly as we would say "really" whether to emphasize something or to question someone and ask for confirmation.  "I'm wallah tired teacher.  Wallah sick.  Wallah," is an excuse I hear from my students much too often.  "Yallah" is how to say "Oh God" and is used in prayer but is also how you would exclaim if something negative happened.  "Ma Salama" translates as "go with God's peace" and is used as a farewell.  There is also a phrase that I'm unable to pronounce and therefore unable to remember or relate to you all that translates as "May god correct and guide you" that is often interjected when someone says something ridiculous or misguided.

Again, I started thinking about speaking this way in English in normal situations.  I couldn't get the idea out of my head of someone asking me how I'm doing and responding with "Praise the Lord!" or maybe "Praise Jesus!".  While I found some humor in that image, it also got me thinking that the idea really isn't all that foreign after all-- definitely not for religious folks-- and why wouldn't you say that if you're doing particularly well.  It became apparent that the English equivalent of a lot of the other phrases are also used if not as frequently, almost as much.  Take for example 'Mashallah' and 'Yallah'.  Both are used the same way English-speakers say "Oh My God"-- one in a positive sense and the other to exclaim about something negative.  We say "Oh My God" all the time (OMG), or if not, some more benign version such as "Oh my goodness", "Gosh", "Golly'', or the like.  We also say "I swear" or "I swear to God" fairly often as well.  Less common and more old-fashioned, we even say "God help you", if someone is terribly wrong, or possibly somewhat sarcastically in a situation where someone says something ridiculous-- almost a direct translation of that phrase I can't pronounce.  "God willing" isn't that uncommon of a phrase either.  Suddenly after some reflection, I began to think that maybe the references to Allah that I was hearing so frequently really didn't set the Arabic I've been exposed to very much apart from English after all.  "Goodbye" even comes from the Middle English word "godbwye", a contraction of "God be with you", and is the equivalent of the Arabic "Ma Salama".  Further reflection and discussion ensued.

I then began to think that the reason we are less likely in Christian-dominated societies to use the word 'God' is for fear of offending the religious, meaning we are actually more sensitive to religion.  After all, it is seen by many as taboo or as using the Lord's name in vain and therefore we've developed less offensive words like 'gosh' and so on.  Just when I happened to think this wasn't the case within Najd (the region of Saudi I live in), I learned from a bilingual buddy of mine that they do in fact have more benign versions of phrases used negatively like 'Yallah'.  I also found out that there is an equivalent of "God damn it" which translates more literally as "Damn God" and is by far the worse swear you could use around these parts.  Again, similarities were outweighing differences.

It should be noted that the dialect of Arabic as well as the phraseology used in Saudi and particularly in Najd is not the same as it is in other places.  I've learned that people in Sham (the part of the Arab world comprising modern day Syria, Jordan, Lebanon and Palestine) are much less likely to use a lot of the phrases I've mentioned in this post.  They very often won't even greet each other with 'Salam Alaikum' and much to the chagrin of folks who do, won't return others' 'Salams'.*  So the words and references I'm mentioning should be thought of in the context and environment to which I'm exposed, one that is inherently more religiously inclined.

Still though, (as I hope is always the case with my 'notes') it's interesting to think about: the use of invoking God in language.  It makes you think about not only the roots, frequency and usage of phrases with 'God' in them, but also our own awareness of those phrases and their deeper spiritual meanings.  It reminds me of one of the most common exclamations used in the Czech Republic, "Ježíš Marie", which literally translates as "Jesus Mary", and how everyone from the elderly to young children use the phrase constantly, seemingly without any thought being given to offending anyone.  Where as in the States if I went around belting out "Jesus" or "Jesus Christ" every time something happened worth exclaiming about I'd be sure to offend people, the secular nature of their society means that the words themselves have very little meaning in any religious context.  They are just simply the words they use to exclaim whether positively or negatively.  The religious sentiment has been completely lost.  

In Saudi though, it is my feeling that the context is never forgotten; that the deeper meaning is purposefully referenced; that they are literally and meaningfully speaking of God, his peace, or invoking his name; and that this is done more frequently than in English speaking societies.  This may be because I feel that in the States we don't necessarily mean our similar phrases as literally and that religion and spirituality aren't as ingrained in our speech and daily life.  It's also hard not to notice the frequency with which people will add words like "Alhamdullilah" and "Inshallah" into much of what they say.  I have no doubt that this feeling has some inherent bias and is due, at least in part, to my own subconscious urge to reinforce my preconception that Islamic societies are inherently more religious than western ones.  I could be wrong, but still, again, it's interesting to think about.

*The common Shami greeting is "Marhaba" although devout Muslims anywhere in the world and people in more religious regions of Sham will often use "Salam Alaikum".

Friday, April 15, 2011

Approved!

It wasn't without it's share of suspense, drama, foot-dragging, procrastination and the like, but finally my travel to the U.S. was approved. It all had to happen according to a very specific plan and along a very specific timeline, but as can be the case when you have both faith and determination, it appears that everything has worked out.  I spent a wonderful week seeing close friends and family and of course spending as much time as possible with my sweet sweet Amy.   It was so necessary to see all those lovely people and for them to see me.  My heart is now running on full and the next three and a half months don't seem like much of a chore at all.  So as I wait for my connecting flight to Riyadh, I finally have the opportunity to relate some things I noted.

When it finally became a reality that I was gonna get to go home (a whole 17 hours before I was supposed to fly), I thought there would probably be quite a few notable instances of reverse culture shock to pass along.  I thought that seeing women galavanting around freely and uncovered would blow me away and that the ability to order a pivo in public would be just too much for me to take.  The truth turned out to be that I couldn't have been more wrong.  What ended up being surprising was just how much those things weren't shocking at all-- not even a little.  I immediately recognized and understood everything as the way that it is everywhere else in the world.  Instead of being blown away by the freedoms of the world outside of Saudi due to my previous withdrawal, I just kind of noticed them and said to myself, "oh yea, that's what it's like", and casually carried on unaffected.  Reverse culture shock failed to have it's impact.  Other than not being blown away by anything particular, I did notice a few things that weren't "Oh my god, have I missed this" type deals but were more like "Gosh, this is nice".

Two things I noted that were really nice to experience in the States and specifically in my home state of Indiana were as follows:

         1) Tap Water.   It is delicious and free and I can drink absolutely as much of it as I like, with no ill affects, all the while improving the strength and density of my teeth.  Tap water in Saudi isn't all that dangerous, but it's extremely hard, doesn't taste right, and if you drink more than just enough  to wet your whistle you might not feel right for the next couple days-- bathroom wise. To have seemingly unlimited, fresh, and delicious water at my fingertips, not to mention for free at  restaurants and bars, was enough to fill my heart with nostalgia for the good old U.S. of A.  It also made me appreciate growing up somewhere that has easy access to fresh, clean water-- something 1 billion people in the world can't say.

          2.) The Weather.  More than just being happy to enjoy the sunshine and not hide from it, my experience in the great state of Indiana reminded me how much I love four distinct seasons.  Spring particularly-- doing it's springing-- made me realize not only that I hadn't been in the US during the season of love for quite some time, but that I hadn't been in Indiana in the spring in 9 years!  I was overwhelmed with memories taking me right back to my high school days of driving my truck and somehow avoiding prosecution amidst all our teenage antics.  Four seasons are such a luxury and spring, with it's returning sunshine, thunderstorms, smells and sounds, trails only autumn as my favorite of all. Yea, sometimes spring takes too long to come, winter can suck, and summer can be brutal as well, but the transitions and the good moments make it all worth it, to me at least. A lot of places don't ever get it so good.

So now, as I sit at the bar in the Abu Dhabi airport waiting for my connecting flight, I'll continue to ponder what it was about the States that was so nice.  I'll also consider all the things that were cause for worry or that inspired hope.  The ladder hopefully outweighing the former.  But we'll see.  Meanwhile, it's back to the desert.


Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Where to turn

With all that's going on in the world, it's sometimes difficult to know where to turn for an alternative to main stream media.  Even apart from Fox news- AKA the propaganda wing of the politically right- editorial bias, or at the very least limitations, become fairly obvious when comparing coverage by the major news providers with other international and independent news sources.  I've actually had a lot of fun with it.  Viewing the coverage of Libya by say the New York Times, comparing that with Fox News, Al-Jazeera, the BBC and then finally with the Asian Times, the Guardian, and Democracy Now has made glaring differences become obvious.  The big discrepancies range from omissions and quickly breezing over key details to fear-mongering and ratcheting up rhetoric-- all of which seeming to be for clearly political reasons.    The comparison, though, is valuable.  It allows the careful observer to discern for themselves not only what actually took place, but also how statements from official sources can be interpreted.   Which key players are nervous, playing the spin game, ignoring, denying, or taking the offensive helps to paint even more clearly a picture of government policy.  Further exploring independent news providers, not forever beholden to corporate control or advertising revenue, allows for a much wider swath for comparison.

It's not always easy to know where you can find truly independent news sources.  No news comes without at least some inherent bias, but here is a sampling of some stories and videos from authors and sites that I've been checking out to get an alternative view of events.  See what you think.

On Bahrain:
http://english.aljazeera.net/indepth/opinion/2011/03/201132982742988712.html

On Libya and key players and stakeholders in the Arab uprisings:
http://www.atimes.com/atimes/Middle_East/MD02Ak01.html*
http://www.atimes.com/atimes/Middle_East/MC30Ak01.html

On the US Economy:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2010/dec/20/debt-crisis-threatens-us-cities
http://www.tomdispatch.com/post/175375/tomgram:_lewis_lapham,_consuming_labor/

On the US labor struggle:
http://www.democracynow.org/2011/4/1/democrats_vow_to_seek_public_referendum

On American Governance*:
http://english.aljazeera.net/indepth/opinion/2011/04/20114391843209245.html

On Cote d'Ivoire:
http://www.globalpost.com/dispatch/news/regions/africa/110404/ivory-coast-gbagbo-ouattara

On Central America:
http://www.alternet.org/story/150474/obama's_drug_war_in_el_salvador?akid=6782.242536.EVVrwE&rd=1&t=24