Thursday, December 9, 2010

KSA in Four Words: 2. "Wasta"

"Wasta"-  Influence, Clout; Who You Know

As a teacher in KSA you have to tread lightly.  You don't want to step on anyone's toes.  It's difficult, because for the most part, the students are highly unmotivated and your avenues for discipline are limited.  At the University level they actually get paid to attend class so the official registers and all of those little 'P's and 'A's (for “Present” or “Absent” respectively) carry a lot of weight financially for those concerned-- and the students will never stop pestering you.  "Present, teacher.  I am present."  "No, Waleed. You were 40 minutes late."  "Please, teacher.  No Parking.  I am sick.  I eat and everything closed for prayer.  Please present, teacher."  The excuses never stop coming.  They'll circle your desk in groups of three or four and complain, beg, bargain, and finally curse in Arabic under their breath when one holds his ground.  But some students take their defeat more silently.  They simply glare, return to their seat and sit down all the while holding eye contact.  Finally they'll smile a knowing, devious smile that suggests more than subtely that this is not over, and that they know who'll have the last laugh.  "Careful, teacher," another student may warn in a whispered tone motioning to the begrudged student. "He has Wasta."

It's clear in KSA that some people have it and some don't.  It's not always obvious based on what color thobe* the men may wear, or what kind of car they drive, but for the most part it’s safe to say that a man wearing all white, driving a $100,000 luxury sedan or SUV has at least a fair share of Wasta.  Others drive more modest cars, wear more modest colors like blue or brown.  But it is clear that little gets accomplished without Wasta.  Whether you're trying to get your cable hooked up, get a visa extended, or secure a lucrative contract, those with Wasta are giving preferential treatment, and for good reason: If they aren't, there are consequences.  In a country where the royal family literally includes 10's of thousands and crown princes are differentiated from royal princes, and just plain old princes based on how direct their blood line is to the King, who your father is, and who you know are the most important questions one can ask.  People without it are shrugged aside.  People with it don't wait in lines and for the most part don't answer to anybody.  Enough Wasta can get you anything.  And I mean Anything. 

If the disparity between the rich and the very rich is obvious, the one between them both and the very poor is as subtle as a kick in the crotch.  The working class-- mostly foreign workers brought in from the Philippines, India, Indonesia, etc.-- are seen working every menial job, every labor position.  They drive your taxis, bag your groceries, sweep your floor, and scrub your toilet.  Saudi's are famous for highering others to do their dirty work and it’s as plainly visible as the expanse of desert that stretches as far as the eye can see in all directions.  As someone clearly benefitting from others' Wasta, it’s hard not to feel guilty.  I've been told to watch the bagboys as they load your groceries into your taxi.  Apparently, quite often not all of your bags will make it into the trunk.  It's a way to supplement their salaries and put food on the table.  When caught, they'll simply feign ignorance or stupidity and apologize profusely, but their willingness to risk so much for my onions, tomatoes and whole grain pasta (about $2 worth of food) says as much about their lot in life in KSA.  Because while Wasta can get you anything, a lack of it can't get you much. 


* Thobe:  Ankle-length one piece garment worn by males in the Arab world and other Muslim countries. 

No comments:

Post a Comment